The distance a wave has travelled.
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Swash
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Weak swash, strong backwash.
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Constructive and destructive waves.
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Fetch, wind speed and wind duration.
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Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.
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Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.
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The wearing away of land by the sea.
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Abrasion occurs as breaking waves, concentrated between the high and low watermarks, which contain sand and larger fragments wear away the base of a cliff or headland. It is commonly known as the sandpaper effect. This process is particularly common in high-energy storm conditions.
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Waves hitting the base of a cliff causes leads to air compression in cracks, joints and folds in bedding planes, causing repeated changes in air pressure. As air rushes out of the crack when the wave retreats, it leads to an explosive effect as pressure is released. This process is supported further by the weakening effect of weathering. The material breaks off cliffs, sometimes in huge chunks. This process is known as hydraulic action.
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Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.
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When rainwater hits rock it decomposes it or eats it away. This is known as carbonation. This occurs when slightly acidic (carbonic) rain or seawater comes into contact with sedimentary rock, such as limestone or chalk, it causes it to dissolve. A chemical reaction occurs between the acidic water and the calcium carbonate and forms calcium bicarbonate. This is soluble and is carried away in solution. Carbonation weathering occurs in warm, wet conditions.
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Freeze-thaw weathering occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or permeable (allow water to pass through). Water enters the rock and freezes. The ice expands by around 9%. This causes pressure on the rock until it cracks. Repeated freeze-thaw can cause the rock to break up.
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Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.
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Chemical weathering is the breakdown of rock through changing its chemical composition.
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Longshore drift
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Solution, suspension, saltation and traction.
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Material is dissolved and carried by the water.
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Coastal transportation involves material being transported by the sea being deposited or dropped.
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The movement of sediment and beach material through wave action.
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