Constructive and destructive waves.

Find out more about constructive waves and destructive waves.

Constructive waves

Find out more about constructive waves.

Weak swash, strong backwash.

Find out more about destructive waves.

Waves are caused by the transfer of energy from the wind to the sea due to the friction of the wind on the water’s surface.

Find out more about waves.

Backwash

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Coastal erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea.

Find out more about the processes of coastal erosion.

Corrasion is when destructive waves pick up beach material (e.g. pebbles) and hurl them at the base of a cliff. Over time this can loosen cliff material forming a wave-cut notch.

Find out more about coastal erosion.

Abrasion occurs as breaking waves, concentrated between the high and low watermarks, which contain sand and larger fragments wear away the base of a cliff or headland. It is commonly known as the sandpaper effect. This process is particularly common in high-energy storm conditions.

Find out more about coastal erosion.

Corrosion/solution is when certain types of cliff erode as a result of weak acids in the sea.

Find out more about the processes of coastal erosion.

Attrition is when waves cause rocks and pebbles to bump into each other and break up.

Find out more about coastal erosion.

Recently weathered rock can be seen at the foot of chalk and limestone cliffs and is easily identified because it is angular.

Find out more about weathering.

Weathering is the breakdown of rock in situ by the action of rainwater, extremes of temperature, and biological activity.

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Mechanical weathering is the breakdown of rock without changing its chemical structure (composition).

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Salt weathering is when salt spray from the sea gets into a crack in a rock. It may evaporate and crystallise, putting pressure on the surrounding rock and weakening the structure.

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Chemical weathering is the breakdown of rock through changing its chemical composition.

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Beach material is bounced along the seafloor.

Find out more about coastal transportation.

Longshore drift

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Wave energy reduces leading to material being deposited.

Find out more about coastal deposition.

The movement of sediment and beach material through wave action.

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Any three from:

• Waves enter an area of shallow water/waves enter a sheltered area, eg a cove or bay
• There is little wind
• A river or estuary flows into the sea reducing wave energy
• There is a good supply of material and the amount of material being transported is greater than the wave energy can transport.

Find out more about coastal deposition.